Thursday, July 31, 2008

Imperial Guard Army List

I'm sure Drax will like this one. ;)

HQ:

-HSO w/ Powerfist, Carapace Armour, Bolt Pistol.
-Commissar w/ Powerfist, Carapace Armour, Bolt Pistol, Honorifica Imperialis.
-4 Veterans including standard and medic w/ Bolt Pistols and CCWs.
194 Points.

Elites:

8 Stormtroopers.
-vet Sarg w/ Power Weapon
-Melta Gun, Flamer.
111 points.

Troops:

Infantry Platoon
-Command Squad, JO w/ PW/BP, Commisar w/ PW/BP, 2 x Flamers.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Plasma Gun, Heavy Bolter.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Plasma Gun, Heavy Bolter.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Melta Gun, Missile Launcher.
349 points.

Infantry Platoon
-Command Squad, JO w/ PW/BP, Commisar w/ PW/BP, 2 x Flamers.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Plasma Gun, Heavy Bolter.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Plasma Gun, Heavy Bolter.
-Infantry Squad w/ Vet Sarg, Melta Gun, Missile Launcher.
349 points.

Fast Attack:

Sentinel w/ Multi-Laser.
45 Points.

Heavy Support:

Leman Russ w/ Dozer Blade, Extra Armour, Lascannon, Heavy Bolters.
178 Points.

Demolisher w/ Dozer Blade, Extra Armour, Lascannon.
175 Points.

Basilisk (As Standard)
100 points.

1501/1500 points. 74 Infantry. 1 Transport. 4 Armour Pieces.

ooops, one point over. Oh well!

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Current Armylist

Thought I'd throw this up, as new content is always good!

Using Codex: Dark Angels in order to get used to the combat squads, and other stuff, before the new SM Codex comes out.

:HQ:

*Company Master (w/ Power Sword, Bolt Pistol and Storm Bolter.)

*Librarian (w/ Terminator armour.)

:Elites:

*Dreadnaught (w/ Assault Cannon and Missile Launcher.)

:Troops:

*Tactical Squad (w/ +5 Marines, Plasma Gun, Power Fist, Plasma Cannon.)
-Rhino (w/ Extra Armour, Extra Storm Bolter.)

*Tactical Squad w/ (+5 Marines, Plasma Gun, Power Fist, Multi Melta.)
-Rhino (w/ Extra Armour, Extra Storm Bolter.)

*Combat Squad (w/ Melta Gun, Power Fist, Plasma Pistol.)

:Fast Attack:

*5 Assault Marines (w/ Powerfist)

:Heavy Support:

*Vindicator (w/ Extra Armour, Dozer Blade.)

*Whirlwind (as standard).

1500 points, 32 marines, 5 Vehicles.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Mid Project break...

...time for something completely different methinks.

Anyway, for quite some time now I've been doing armies in pretty darned bright and neatly regimented colourschemes and style, i.e. Salamanders and Saim Hann. (They seem to all begin with S too...) So I thought it was time I tried something at the other end of the spectrum.

I'm thinking stinky, lowlife cityfighting scum of the galaxy guard with filthy tanks covered in oil in a drab "realistic" type military scheme. Which led me on to Andy Hoare's Mordant 22nd Heavy Planetary Assault Corps. (See White Dwarf 338). If I remember correctly, they were also in the Tactica: Imperialis book with a nice little sketch where they look scarred to hell/dirty/almost heretical. Not to mention that Heavy Planetary Assault Corps is just stupendously bada*sed as a company name. Their scheme seems to be a drab and grim looking Catachan Green based affair, with plenty of scuffing and wear.

All in all, exactly what I'm after here. I thought I might contrast the muted greens with some scuffed up and dirty looking dark greys (ala Charadon Granite). The metals would be dirty/oily/tarnished and whatnot.

Painting style would probably be a lot looser and less tidy than I usually do, with some drybrushing/heavy washing and the type.

Some inspiration would come from, the colonial marines from alien, pictured above and things of that kind of nature and style.

I'm thinking, a mix of Cadian and Catachan parts, to give the impression of a kind of hi-tech regiment, who also happen to be complete badasses who don't really give a rats posterior about rules and regulations, looking good or anything other than smashing the enemies of the emperor.

On the other hand, I could attempt an army I've never done before... ala Necrons. I always wanted to do a necron army, but that reputation of cheesy powergamer nonsense that surrounds them has always kind of put me off.

Gentlemen, your thoughts and imput would of course be greatly appreciated!

/Sam

Friday, July 18, 2008

Some Pictures

Some veterens.
Terminator Command Squad.

Dreadnaught.

The first whirlwind.

These pictures are pretty poor quality, as I'm still learning how to do the photographing miniatures thing, but nevertheless, hope you like em!

I'll post some more when I actually manage to figure out how to sort out colour saturation etc, and actually do something approaching a light diffusion box, rather than some paper hurridly stacked!

Edit: How come the whirlwind came out so much nicer?

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Salamanders Painting Scheme

I thought I'd throw my Salamanders paint scheme up, for anyone who cares.

No pictures as of yet, but it should be self explanatory.

Materials Used

*Model Primed with Chaos Black Spray

*Baal Red
*Badab Black
*Blazing Orange
*Bleached Bone
*Blood Red
*Boltgun Metal
*Chainmail
*Chaos Black
*Elf Flesh
*Leviathan Purple
*Mithril Silver
*Mechrite Red
*Ogryn Flesh
*Orkhide Shade
*Scab Red
*Scorched Brown
*Scorpian Green
*Shining Gold
*Skull White
*Snot Green
*Vomit Brown

*Tamiya Clearcoat Orange

Green Armour

1) A single coat of Orkhide Shade (OHS) 1:1 with Snot Green (SG). I prefer this to using Dark Angels green for a couple of reasons. Firstly, It covers a lot more consistently and well than DAG does, even thinned down quite a lot. Secondly, I want to get the blueish SG into the mix early on to help establish that Salamanders colour we all know and love.

2) Between 2-4 Coats of pure SG, depending on the size of the area and paint consistency. You have to play it by ear a bit and do as many coats as you see fit to get a strong and dominant colour. Remember to leave the original mix in the deep shade/cracks/areas between armour plates and whatnot! Good Shading is essential for a paint job to look good, almost as much so as good highlighting. It so often gets negelected, usually by someone throwing a wash haphazrdly all over a model, when it is in fact an essential!

3) A roughly 1:1 blend of SG to Scorpian Green (SCG) for the first highlight layers, as per extreme edge highlighting. You may like to do as I do, and have it quite watered down so as to get it slightly blended in to the mid tone. This way, your highlights will fade out of the basecoat, and not sit on top. Of course, some people may prefer very acute highlights. Different Strokes...

4) An extreme edge highlight of pure SCG on the leading/upwards facing edges. You have to try not to overdo is here, as you'll end up with a very yellow result in no time, which again, you may want to go for if you like that kind of thing!

5) A 2:1 mix of SCG to Bleached Bone (BB). This is a tiny, tiny highlight to the areas that catch the most light i.e. leading edges and the very topmost facing edges. You may not even want to use this final highlight, and indeed not doing so will still yield a very pleasing result!

Red Robes, Purity Seals, etc.

1) A flat undercoat of Foundation Mechrite Red all over.

2) A basecoat of Scab Red completely covering all the previous coat. The reason being, the mechrite will cover in a coat of two, and then the Scab will entirely cover that in another couple. Which is a damn sight easier than the 6 odd coats of Scab Red you'll need to build up the same intensity and richness of colour!

3) An all over shading wash of the new Baal Red wash.

4) A careful shading wash of Badab Black, only in the deep recesses and associated areas. Be very careful with this and avoid flooding the area with it. In essence, paint it into the recesses slowly, maybe using more than one layer.

5) Re-basecoat the mid tone areas with a 1:1 of Scab Red and Blood Red. The scab red will help give the blood red some extra body and cut down the amound of layers necessary to achieve a solid and rich colour.

6) A highlight of pure blood red. See the green armour section for a note on harsh VS soft highlights.

7) A Second highlight of 1:1 Blood Red to Blazing Orange, working up to the extreme edges. Again, water your paints down as you see fit to make this mix flow!

8) A third highlight on the leading/extreme edges of pure Blazing orange, very sparingly or else you'll make the red far too orange!

9) A optional final "light reflections" highlight of 2:1 Blazing orange to Elf Flesh only on the most extreme edges. Be very careful at this point, or else you'll really be in orange town!

Silver Metals

1) A basecoat of 1:1 Boltgun metal to chaos black.

2) A midtone of Boltgun metal, leaving the deepest recesses at stage 1.

3) A shade layer (see the red section for a tip on not overdoing it) of the new Badab Black wash.

4) A quite acute edge highlight of Chainmail.

5) A smallish highlight of Mithril Silver on the most extreme upper edges only.

Gold Metals:

1) A basecoat of 1:1 Scorched brown to Shining Gold.

2) Midtone of pure Shining gold, again leaving the original colour in the deepest recesses.

3) First, a careful shade of Ogryn Flesh. Then, optionally, a shade of leviathan purple. Which I use to warm golds up and take out some of the yellow tone.

4) An extreme edge highlight of 1:2 Mithril silver to Shining Gold. Being very sparse and not overdoing it.

5) Another light reflections layer of pure Mithril Silver, used very very VERY sparsely. If you overdo this, you're likely to be in real trouble!

6) A careful and very thinned glaze of Tamiya's Clearcoat Orange. This takes the edge off the highlights and finishes off warming the colour up. I'll credit Jacob Rune-Nielson for this, as it was his idea.

Black

1) Paint a basecoat of quite thinned Chaos Black over the primer layer, even thought you've primed black. Chaos black from the pot has quite a different satin-like texture that I much prefer to the slightly rough finish of Chaos Black primer.

2) First highlight of 1:1 Chaos Black to the Foundation Adeptus Battlegrey.

3) A 1:1:1 mix of Chaos Black, to Adeptus Battlegrey to Astromicon Grey. Only on the uppermost edges!

Scrolls/Parchment/Purity Seals

1) A basecoat of Bestial Brown

2) A midtone of Vomit Brown, leaving bestial in the deepest recesses.

3) An "upper-midtone" of 1:1 Vomit Brown to Bleached Bone.

4) First highlight of Pure Bleached bone.

5) Second highlight of 1:1 Bleached Bone to Skull White.

6) Final, very sparesly used highlight of pure Skull White.

These are the colours most often used for Sallies. You may want to use the odd spot colour, but these are the heart and soul of your scheme.

/Sam

The Debut

Welcome to my blog!

A little background:

I'm Sam B, from Cardiff in the UK. I've started this blog to (hopefully) showcase some of the 40k/GW stuff I've been doing or will be doing.

I got into the hobby for the second time around 3 years ago thanks to the phenomenon only known as DoW, after a damn long hiatus since a short time playing during 2nd Edition.

Currently, I'm working on the Salamanders First - The Fire Drakes - and Second companies. I'm using Deathwing rules for the first and currently, also Codex: Dark Angels for the second. However, with Codex: Space Marines just around the corner - which allegedly features a lot of love for the Salamanders - I'll be changing to that just as soon as I get my filthy mits on it.

Other armies I've been working on, and will probably continue to do so in the future are; Saim Hann Eldar, Blackhearts Red Corsairs, Bad Moon Orks, the Vostroyan Firstborn 7th, Vampire Counts and whichever fantasy army nexts take my fancy, likely Wood Elves or Dark Elves.

Hopefully I'll have some actual content soon!

/Sam